Japan Car Auction Grades

The auction grading system in Japan is very good, probably the best that is possible. There are some slight differences between the auction house groups, and they do update the wording of criteria from time to time; however, the table below contains the main points and is also based on our experience at inspecting cars.

Auction Grades


GradeConditionDescription
SNewNo damage, no repair, no modification.
6Almost NewNo damage, no repair, no modification. Less than 36 months old from first registration date and travelled less than 30,000 km.
5ImmaculateNo replacement of any panels. The exterior may have some very minor scratches and marks (very hard to see any). The vehicle has travelled less than 50,000 km.
4.5Very GoodThe exterior generally has more minor scratches and marks than grade 5 (still very few). May have a replacement of a panel that is fixed by screws (e.g. doors, fenders). The vehicle has travelled less than 100,000 km. In our experience, these are some of the best quality used cars, usually requiring no work.
4GoodThe exterior has some scratches or scrapes and possibly minor dents. The vehicle has travelled less than 150,000 km. May have had panel replacement, but none replaced that require welding (e.g. rear quarters, door sills). In our experience, this grade is a good quality used car but sometimes needs minor bodywork or paint to be perfect.
3.5AverageThe exterior usually has some more noticeable scratches, scrapes or dents. May have had panel replacement that required re-welding (e.g. rear quarters, door sills). In our experience, this grade usually has some scratches or dents (bumpers, plastic parts, wheel arches).
3Low ConditionMay have a panel replacement or modification that required welding of the structure (e.g. rear quarters, door sills). The exterior may have more noticeable large scratches, scrapes, paint blemishes or larger dents. It may also be a modified car (race car) or a repaired car.
2Very LowVery poor condition. It may have large corrosion holes or significant structural issues.
1Major IssueFlood or Fire Damaged Cars.
RRepairedHas had some repair to the structural parts in the table below. In our experience, the repair quality varies and we would suggest having an inspection. Sometimes they can be good, and sometimes they are not so good.
RAMinor RepairCars that have had minor repairs to structural components, or, they are well repaired. In our experience, these cars can look as good as a grade 4 or above.
***Recycle CarsCars that have been entered into the 'recycled auction section'. Usually damaged cars, but sometimes they are running with engine or transmission issues. Non-running cars are moved by forklifts and require special transport procedures which are more costly. These cars are not graded by the auction house.

Interior Grades


GradeDescription
AThe interior condition is excellent, maybe a few minor scratches.
BThe interior condition is very good, maybe some minor wear or scratches.
CThe interior is worn, maybe average condition for the age. Possibly some stains, scratching, loose upholstery, more scratches or some burns.
DThe interior is very worn. Possibly heavy stains, loose upholstery, dashboard cracking, seats torn, burn holes in seats.
EThe interior is in very poor condition and will need extensive repair or replacement of parts.

How to Read an Auction Sheet


Every car at auction comes with an auction sheet — the inspector's report of the car's condition. The example below shows a typical USS auction sheet with each area explained in English. The inspector marks damage on the car diagram using short codes and Japanese shorthand, which are explained in the tables that follow. Our team translates the full sheet for you on any car you are interested in.

Japanese car auction sheet explained in English — USS auction sheet with every field labelled

Body Diagram Codes


The car diagram on the auction sheet is marked with letter codes showing the location, type and size of any damage. Scratches (A) and dents (U) are the most common marks you will see.

CodeMeaning
Scratches
A / A1Scratch up to hand size
A2Scratch one to two hand size
A3 / A4Scratch over two hand size
Dents
U1Small dent, up to the size of the base of a thumb
U2Dent up to hand size
U3Dent larger than a hand size
EVery small dents and dimples
Scratch + Dent
B1 / B2 / B3Scratch and dent (up to thumb size / up to hand size / larger than a hand)
AU1 / AU2 / AU3Combined scratch and dent, small / medium / large — many auctions (including USS) use AU as a single merged code instead of B
Cracks & Glass
Y1 / Y2 / Y3Cracks or splits (up to thumb size / up to hand size / larger than a hand)
G / G1Windshield glass chip or crack (G1 = small stone chip)
Paint & Repair
W / W1Repaint of high quality
W2Repaint slightly wavy but good repair condition
W3Repaint of lower quality
Inspectors also use W to note panel waves or distortion left by previous repair work.
BPPanel repaired and repainted — short for Body & Paint (板金塗装)
P (Pハゲ / Pアセ / Pシミ)Paint faded / slightly discoloured / stained or oxidised
Replacement
XXPanel replaced
XPart needs replacing
When XX is marked on core supports, floor panels or pillars, it indicates a structural replacement or a cut-and-joined section.
Rust & Corrosion
S / S1Surface rust on the body
S2 / S3Medium to heavy rust (spreading, or threatening structural integrity)
C1 / C2Corrosion bubbles or flaking coming through the panels / heavy corrosion

Codes written under the chassis outline refer to the underbody — A there means underbody scrapes, and U means chassis or frame dents (frame rails, floor pans, jack points).

Common Diagram Katakana Annotations


Inspectors often add handwritten Japanese shorthand next to the codes. These are the most common terms you will see on the diagram.

JapaneseReadingMeaning
トビ / トビ石Tobi / Tobi-ishiStone chip(s) — frequently combined with sizes (e.g. トビA for small stone chips) or written on windshields and front ends. On a windscreen, トビ is usually a tiny, repairable stone chip — almost every used car has one or two of these
ヒビHibiCrack or hairline fracture — commonly on glass, plastic bumpers, light lenses or dashboard trim. On a windscreen, ヒビ is a step up from トビ: a small chip or crack that has started to spread, which may need repair or glass replacement
スレ / スリSure / SuriScrape, scuff or friction wear (often combined as スリA or スレA) — often the type of scrape found under the front bumper lip
ズレZureMisaligned, shifted or displaced — commonly used for bumpers, body kits, side skirts or panel gaps
ウスUsuLight, faint or shallow — used as a modifier (e.g. ウスキズ = shallow scratches, ウスヘコミ = faint dimples)
ワレWareBroken, split or heavy crack — commonly marked on spoilers, side skirts, bumpers and body kits
ハゲ / PハゲHage / P-HagePeeling or flaking — usually paint peeling or clear-coat failure
サビSabiSurface rust
ヘコミ / 凹HekomiDent (written out instead of, or alongside, U)
キズKizuScratch (written out instead of, or alongside, A)
アセ / 色アセAse / Iro-asePaint fading or discoloration — frequently noted on carbon hoods/wings, roofs or trunks
ムラMuraUnevenness / wavy paint — often seen with repainted panels (ペイントムラ)
シワShiwaWrinkled, creased or wavy — used for leather seat wear or subtle sheet-metal creasing
コゲ / コゲ穴Koge / Koge-anaCigarette burn / cigarette burn hole (interior seat or headliner)
ヨゴレYogoreDirt, stain or soil (interior upholstery or headliner)
ヤブレYabureTear or rip (seats, door trims or steering-wheel wrap)
タレTareSagging (headliner) or a paint run/drip
コウカンKoukanReplaced / needs replacement
カバーKabaaCover (e.g. bumper cover, mirror cover)

Key Modifier Prefixes & Suffixes

JapaneseReadingMeaning
Sho / KoSmall / minor (e.g. 小キズ = minor scratch, 小凹 = minor dent)
DaiLarge / major (e.g. 大キズ = deep or large scratch)
TaMany / multiple (e.g. キズ多 = multiple scratches)
不調 / 不良Fuchou / FuryouDefective, faulty or malfunctioning (e.g. AC不良 = air-conditioning faulty)
NinA person — used to indicate the number of seats (e.g. 5人 = 5 seats)

Criteria for R Grade


In order to be an R grade, the structural parts below need to have been replaced or repaired. However, this does not apply to any structural components that could be attached by bolts or screws, it therefore only covers the "skeleton" that is welded together. The diagrams below show where these structural parts are on the car.

Car structural parts diagram — front: cowl panel, front inside panel, front side member, core supports, front cross member, front pillar, center pillar, roof, quarter panel, tire house, rear inner panel, body side sillCar structural parts diagram — rear and underbody: center floor panel, floor side member, trunk floor, rear side member, spare tire storage compartment, end panel, tire house, rear inner panel

The structural diagrams and repair-history criteria on this page are based on training materials from AIS (Automobile Inspection System), Japan's leading vehicle-inspection standards organisation. Our inspection staff have attended AIS training workshops and hold AIS certification.

NoStructureCriteria
1Cross member (front and rear)Replaced; or has a bend, dent or repair traces
2Side members (front and rear) — front: only the section behind the core supportReplaced; or has a bend, dent or repair traces
3Inside Panel (front) / Dash panel (firewall) — front: only the section behind the core supportReplaced; or dents or repair traces that have spread from the outside or through the outer panel
4Pillar (front, centre, rear)Replaced, re-spot welded, dents or repair traces that have spread through the panel
5RoofReplaced, a dent or repair traces spreading from a pillar or on the inside part of the roof
6Centre floor panel / Floor side memberReplaced parts, joints separating, cracks, bends or repair traces
7Rear floor panel / Trunk floorReplaced parts, joints separating, cracks, bends or repair traces
8*Radiator core supportReplaced, and with damage to the adjacent inside panel (dents), cross member or side member (bends or dents), or their repair traces

* From April 1, 2016 the radiator core support is excluded from the above table.